Monday, October 24, 2011

Welcome to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia


Salem Everyone!
                If you are reading this blog, you are a concerned family member, a curious friend (what up?),  or a stalker (please look like James Franco). These posts are meant to record my experiences interning for an international NGO in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, so advanced apologizes if this seems to resemble a Tina Fey dialogue at some points (I wish), and an economist article at others (double wish).  
   Let’s begin by documenting some info I've learned/experiences from my first week here in Ethiopia, which is truly the land of contradictions. From a historical perspective, Ethiopia is the only African nation to never be colonized by Europeans- not that Mussolini’s Italians did attempt to conquer the land, however, in the 1930s and after, spaghetti and pizza failed to make the world drool, and fill the bellies of the Ethiopian masses. In short, the Ethiopian military overthrew the Italians and were rewarded after World War II by the allies with Italy’s former colony, Eritrea. Ethiopia’s identity as an independent African national transformed into a role as the brutal colonizer of Eritrea, which led to a bloody civil war in the 1990s.                
From a religious perspective, Ethiopians affiliate themselves mostly with Islam and Coptic Christianity, but Ethiopia is home to the last tribe of Israel (where my black Jews at?).  In fact, the earliest common ancestor to homo sapiens sapiens is a lass named Lucy who is almost as short as me. I know we must be related since she was probably a Jew (see picture and note our similar looks).                                                                                   


Let’s talk about another cultural contradiction, which I actually find quite depressing. The women here are incredibly beautiful. I feel like I walking down the street next to models during New York Fashion week. These babes are tall, skinny, have high cheek bones, beautiful skin, possess a delicate flow in their walk, and, despite terrible poverty, do their best to dress in fashion forward outfits. The women of course carry umbrellas, so that they don’t expose their flawless skin to the sun. The Queen of Sheba, Solomon’s wife, and rumored in a New York Times Best-Selling book called, The Bible, to be the most beautiful woman in the world was Ethiopian. Why is the beauty of women a contradiction you might ask? Well, although the men are the fastest runners I’ve ever seen, (Coach Cantele would recruit them in a heartbeat) I wish the men took a tip from their women. They are a bit too fast for me (see below).

 

                Another pop culture/cult/ religious contradiction: although, Westerners are obsessed with Rastafarians, and give them the reputations of being fun lovin’, dread wearin’, ganja smokin’, reggae enthusiasts, Addis Ababa is the place from which Rastafarian Christ-like figure Haile Selassie descends. There worship of Haile Selassie by Rastafarians emerges from his leadership against white colonial attempts, from which he was dubbed by Bob Marley and others, the Lion of Judah. The worship of Emperor Haile Selaisse is only an international phenomenon, since his true reputation amongst his people as a Gaddaffi minded dictator, which led to a military coup that left the Lion of Judah murdered in his imperial palace by his military (at the direction of the people).  I cannot overemphasize the  tragic implications of Selassie’s rule on his people including the murders of those who opposed him, the communist rule that followed his reign, as well as the suffering of his people through famine, drought, and poverty. On the other hand, some argue, Selassie modernized the county, and brought international business to Ethiopia including Ethiopian Airlines (which yours truly flew to Addis Ababa). Despite the modern vibe of Addis Ababa, on one hand to most, Selassie was a brutal authoritarian, and on the other, you have a Christ-like figure.                                                         
                                                                
                Finally, in the high altitude of Addis that leads to the stunning Rift Valley that passes from the Middle East through Africa, Ethiopia is a land of aesthetic beauty (except for the naked man I saw walking down the street yesterday). I went on a hiking trip with other expats the past weekend to the Lake Kono area, and was awed by the vast amount of green jungle, grass lands, and once active volcanic sites. The land is truly beautiful, but the pollution in Addis leaves my asthmatic lungs in desperation for some clean air. Seriously, when you fly over the city and look down, there is a disgusting green/brownish smog that covers the city- add the altitude, and by the age of 50, I will be sitting on the couch and breathing via oxygen machine, which will make me resemble a female version of Michael Moore.
 Now that you have read through all of this, there are two statements I must make: ever had Ethiopian Coffee? No, no, not the synthetic stuff you buy at Starbucks on the way to work in the morning, the REAL stuff- Buna or Macchioto? The best advice I can give you readers as a gift for making it through this entry, go to your local Ethiopian Restaurant, order coffee with a little bit of milk, some injeera, wot, and ENJOY! The food is truly incredible, and it’s probably a major reason the Ethiopians even resisted Italian colonialism. I am not knocking Italian food, but if you are in for a cultural experience, take my advice and sample one of the world’s finest culinary achievements!

 

Check in later this week for some more updates! Miss everyone at home!!!

<3 Laura

*Note: For legal reasons, some of these pictures may not be mine, and I in no way intend to take credit for such talented photography. My less awesome photos will be posted on the next blog. I just want my dedicated readers to get the best impression of my experience. Don’t harsh my gig bros.